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 Post subject: Another Mechanics question
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 2:59 pm 
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Is it easy enough to increase the idle engine speed in a car, just I was out in the bloody Micra this morning and a few times when I was slowing down the engine cut out but I managed to start it again straight away. I think that I just need to raise the speed by about 500 or so revs so it can tick over ok when I am at traffic lights/ a juction/ roundabout etc without cutting out.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:02 pm 
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depends on the ignition system

if manual then yes by adjust the idle screws on the carburretor

or if like not manual - i think it be called electric - then it could be something call your potentiometer that is shorting/malfunctioning that is causing the problem.

You may have other issues tho - an oil leak and now cutting out a lot - it could just be tired and the head may have cracked or the head gasket gone.

not a mechanic by the way just remember stuff from 'when i were young'

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:08 pm 
Does anyone know how to change a Cottapin on a Grifter....mine's goosed???? confised


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:30 pm 
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MutleyRules wrote:
Does anyone know how to change a Cottapin on a Grifter....mine's goosed???? confised


I dont, but i know a lad who can change the cisse bar on a raleigh chopper, in under 30 seconds. :laugh:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 3:46 pm 
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katcha wrote:
depends on the ignition system

if manual then yes by adjust the idle screws on the carburretor

or if like not manual - i think it be called electric - then it could be something call your potentiometer that is shorting/malfunctioning that is causing the problem.

You may have other issues tho - an oil leak and now cutting out a lot - it could just be tired and the head may have cracked or the head gasket gone.

not a mechanic by the way just remember stuff from 'when i were young'


Cheers MR K, I don't really want to be spending that much money on repairing it as I plan to sell it as soon as possible, plus it is nearly Christmas and on my car either the battery or alternator has gone, don't know which yet but it is definately one of them.

At this rate I will be catching up with Salty soon on car issues :shock:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 5:04 pm 
you gotta loooooooooooooooong way to go yet fens my boy :evil:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 8:46 pm 
before these threads are finished fensy you will be a qualified mechanic all but the piece of paper like showing your qualifications :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 9:18 pm 
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I do work there Mr O but all I do is build them I have nothing to do with the mechanical side. I am still unsure about the battery/alternator as the battery only died the other day, i have recharged it but if it dies again it could be that the alternator is not keeping it charged as I drive but then again it could just be the battery that is fooked, I can't complain though I have had from new and it has 100k on the clock and this is the first thing to go wrong with it.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 10:04 pm 
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Mr Fens, get a voltmeter, set it to measure DC voltage, and then put the red lead onto the battery positive terminal, and the black lead onto the negative side of the battery.
Start the engine,and you should expect to see somewhere in the region of 14 volts. If that is the case, alternator is ok. If it's less than 14v, leave the black lead on the battery negative, and with the red probe, (with the engine still running) check what voltage is coming directly out of the alternator. If you are now seeing the magic 14v, you have a fault on the main cable between alternator and battery.
If it reads less than 13.8v (ish), alas, your alternator is buggered!

HOWEVER, if you decide alternator is ok, the fault is not necessarily the battery, it could be that you have an electrical consumer staying on overnight, giving a too large "closed circuit current" usually about 25 milliamps........if you get stuck, PM me!

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