I have done something a woman probably wouldn't even do and I need some advice. The oil light came on so I bought some oil from Asda. After I had poured the full 5L in, I read the can and it said it was for diesel engines. I have a petrol engine. The oil can says Asda Diesel Motor Oil 15w/40. It says suitable for diesel engines and gives turbo protection high performance. I've just taken it for a spin and it seems fine. BUT should I take it to the garage tomorrow and get them to check it out or should I be ok?

It's better than no oil but you should go in to a cheap oil change place and get new oil and a new filter tomorrow, or at the very least before you do a long journey. Mixing different types of oil isn't good but it isn't like putting diesel in a petrol engine so relax.

Take it along to the chinese take away along stockton road and get me special curry with chips and some noodles and bring it to verbal towers and i will have a look at your foo foo valve for you

Very good verbal

Thanks Toulouse.

i wouldnt have thought there would be any problems with 15/40 its a pretty much standard engine oil, check your car manual see what oil that suggests.

Agreed. Nothing to worry about but I would get it changed in the next few days just to be sure.

But what if I ignore it and hope nothing happens?

itl go bang and youl be in the middle of a fireball like that ferrari was in the pit lane FACT

Definitely get the oil & filter changed asap and have it flushed as well if possible - no damage done as long as you haven't driven it on a long journey or on high revs.

Really?

It depends what age of car it is.

An older car (like mine) runs fine on 15w/40 but if you have a modern car then you are better of getting it changed. You will get slightly poorer fuel economy with 15w/40 due to piston drag than a finer oil so the cost of getting a fresh oil change will be worth it in the long run. If you have an old car then a thicker oil is less likely to squeeze between the piston rings.

It's a Vauxhall Astra 2003 model.

You may well find that the oil wont do it any harm whatsoever but its a modern car and could handle a more modern oil. You will get a better fuel economy with a modern thinner oil and for peace of mind I would just get it changed.

It'll make sod all difference! Theres not much difference these days in fact it could be argued that it will do more good than harm. Diesel engine oil has a higher detergent level.

I wouldn't worry, it'll be fine up to the next change.

What about the stains on the back seat and that smel from the boot?

What about the stains on the back seat and that smel from the boot?

both stains?

Fair point by Mr I as far as the merits of different oils are concerned but what did you have in before? Mixing oils isn't good and, as Hawklord says, high revs on a long journey could cause bother. £20 for peace of mind...

If he removes the body parts and wears clothing below the waist when driving in future, the 'stains' should cease appearing.

As long as the socks are worn appropriately

Either way, for peace of mind its no hardship to dchange the oil and chuck a new oil filter on.

i wouldnt be surprised if it had 15/40 in anyway maybe 15/30 but theres not much diffference between em anyway

OO wont pay it he's a cheap skate.

starter motor

cylinder head gasket

Fan belt.

factory fitted sunroof

dip-stick

tappets

Procedure

As the engine removal procedure is written assuming the engine is removed from below, the installation procedure detailed here is based on the same assumption. That means that the steering rack and engine cross-member should already be removed from the car.


For manual transmission cars, if the clutch disc and/or pressure plate was removed while the engine was out of the car, ensure that the clutch disc has been aligned with the pressure plate prior to attempting to install the engine. Actually, the should have been done prior to installing the engine's bell housing. You can obtain a clutch alignment tool from Baum Tool. However, a universal clutch alignment tool which can be obtained at most major auto parts stores will work just as well.
Ensure that the motor mount brackets are attached to the engine block.
Ensure that the car is raised high enough to slide the engine underneath. Position the engine under the car in the center of the engine compartment.
Attach an engine hoist or chain hoist to the engine's lifting points (2 - one at the back of the cam housing, one near the alternator).
Raise the engine into position in the car. The engine will have to be move toward the front of the engine compartment to clear the front end of the drive shaft. When the end of the drive shaft is positioned in the center of the opening in the clutch housing, slide the hoist toward the rear of the car. The engine may have to be rocked slightly as it is moved back onto the drive shaft. However, if the clutch disc is aligned properly, the drive shaft should insert without a great deal of effort.
Install the torque tube (central tube) flange to clutch housing bolts (4, M10 x 35mm). Torque bolts to 42 Nm (30 ft-lbs).

Note
Prior to installing the cross-member, check the motor mounts using ENG-11, to see if they need to be replaced.


Ensure the engine motor mounts are installed into the cross-member. Install the lower motor mount bolts (10 mm) but, do not fully tighten until the cross-member is raised into place.

NOTE
If new motor mounts have been installed, use ENG-12 to determine the correct length of upper motor mount bolts (4 - 8mm bolts) to be used.


Using a floor jack, raise the cross-member into position under the engine. Check to make sure that the motor mounts line up with the motor mount brackets on the engine block.
You'll probably find it easiest to slide the steering shaft universal joint on to the spline inlet shaft of the steering rack before the cross-member is fully raised into position. Be sure to install the universal joint in the correct orientation as marked on the input shaft splines and universal joint during removal. Install the universal joint locking bolt.
Install the upper motor mount bolts (8mm) and using a 13 mm socket torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs). Using a 17 mm socket, torque the lower motor mount bolts to 32 ft-lbs.
When the cross-member is fully raised into position, install the cross-member mounting bolts (12 mm) and using a 19 mm socket, torque to 85 Nm (63 ft-lbs).
Disconnect the engine hoist and move the hoist and floor jack out of the way.
Install the suspension control arms and stabilizer bar. Torque the control arm to cross-member lock nut (12 mm) to 48 ft-lbs. Torque the rear control arm mounting bracket bolts (10 mm) to 34 ft-lbs. This is the assembly for the eccentric caster bolt at the rear of the control arm.
Attach the steering knuckle to the control arm ball joint. Torque the steering knuckle lock nut (10 mm) to 37 ft-lbs.
Bolt the air condition compressor into place.
Install the front stabilizer bar. Torque the stabilizer to control arm lock nut (10 mm) to 18 ft-lbs. Torque the stabilizer bracket to body bolts (8 mm) to 17 ft-lbs.
Install the alternator, if removed.
Install motor mount heat shield.
Install slave cylinder.
Install the exhaust system.
If equipped, install the oxygen sensor (USA cars)
Attach fuel supply and return lines.
Install the charcoal venting hose.
Install the AC fast idle hose.
Install all vacuum and coolant hoses.
Reattach the hose to the heater control valve and the hose for the coolant return line from the heater core.
Install the power steering pump and reconnect hoses.
Install the starter and reconnect electrical leads.
Route the engine wiring harness through the firewall to the DME control unit.
Reconnect all engine grounds. There should be a connection near the top of the clutch housing on the driver's side of the vehicle (RHD) and a connection on the block near the same location. There should also be a ground connection on the firewall either inside the engine compartment or inside the battery compartment. BE SURE TO CLEAN ALL GROUND CONNECTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE INSTALLATION. A bad ground connection can result in poor running and may lead to eventual failure of the DME control unit.
Connect the brake booster vacuum hose.
Connect the throttle cable and, if equipped, the cruise control cable and cruise control unit servo electrical connector.
Install the radiator using COOL-04.
On turbocharged cars install the turbocharger cooling pump, connect hoses, and electrical connector.
Install the rotor and distributor cap using IGN-01.
Install the air flow sensor and air filter housing using AF-01.
Attach the engine wiring harness to the firewall using appropriate cable ties.
Inside car, connect the wiring harness to the DME control unit (and KLR on turbo models).
Using COOL-02, fill and vent the coolant system.
Fill the power steering reservoir.
Check the engine oil for proper level.
Connect the battery leads.
Install the fuse for the fuel pump, if removed.
Start vehicle and allow to warm up. Check for leaks in the engine compartment and underneath the vehicle. Move steering wheel from side to side and check level in power steering reservoir. Add fluid as necessary.
Stop vehicle, install skid pan, front wheels, and lower vehicle from jack stands.

HTH

Electric windows.

piston rings

pissed and broke

Ey Billingham I've come to understand we can always rely on you.

Did you ever go to the KD club, early on that was like.

I have no knowledge of a KD club

The Kave Dwellers Club in Billingham was a bit of a legend in the early 60's had Georgie Fame and the Blue Flames and the like, it was a good music venue but I'm sure I only went for the women and the beer. You have to be an owld get to have been there, I thought you might be old enough to have remembered it but you're obviously a much younger person.

Only paid my first visit to Billingham around 1978, after I met the future Mrs Billingham Poolie.

So the rumours aren't true.............. someone does love Billingham

Love at first sight!!

Just found this re: cave dwellers club......

28/09/2007 11:12:09BARRY PARKIN

HELLO TONY SCOTT, I AM TRYING TO PICTURE YOU NOW, I MOVED FROM SWAINBY RD TO ALVERSTON RD NORTON IN 1962, I LIVED ACROSS FROM GEOFF BLACKBURN AND KNOCKED AROUND WITH GEOFF, MALLY WOODS, MICK DEGNAN, TERRY O"CONNELL, JIMMY MANNION, ALBY HINDMARSH, AND LOTS OF OTHERS, WE ALL WENT TO THE CAVE DWELLERS CLUB IN STATION ROAD BILLINGHAM ON A FRIDAY NIGHT AND THE JUBILEE HALL ON SATURDAY NIGHTS, IF YOU REMEMBER ME GET BACK IN TOUCH.

from here.............


http://www.picturestockton.co.uk/viewpage.aspx?id=3273

another reference on here......

http://www.picturestockton.co.uk/viewpage.aspx?id=4767

I would continue my search, but I'm too tired and emotional after the sad news this evening, and I need some sleep, to prepare myself for 5-a-side tomorrow.